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Bonding to Existing Concrete

posted by Bob Monday, November 22, 2010 at 12:00 PM

Fact: Fresh wet concrete does not normally bond well to existing dry concrete. Do you remember elementary school where one of the subjects on which you were graded was “plays well with others”? Concrete would have gotten an F. There is nothing in basic portland cement that will act as a bonding agent. Portland cement concrete works well in mass and provides great compressive strength but not bond.

Concrete is marvelous stuff but in time it will deteriorate. When it does you either have to patch it or replace it. Assuming that it is structurally sound the least expensive alternative is to patch it. However patching it requires some attention to detail or your patch will not last. So that you don’t waste too much time or money we should probably discuss what “structurally sound” means. If your sidewalk has either heaved or dropped at almost every joint, repairing it will not provide a long term solution. The slabs are likely still moving. If your slab has so much sand and gravel on the surface that despite sweeping and sweeping and squirting and squirting it just keeps coming back, don’t waste your time on repairs. If you have multiple cracks that run so deep that they appear to run through the slab, a repair would only be temporary. The solution to all of these problems involves a jack hammer and bags of one of the Sakrete concretes.

Since this discussion is on the best way to bond concrete we will assume that your slab is good.

There are a variety of Sakrete concrete repair products available to fix concrete that has begun to deteriorate. However without good surface preparation, none of them are going to perform satisfactorily. All loose sand, gravel, dirt, leaves etc. must be removed. This can typically be done with a garden hose and a good nozzle. Tough areas may require a pressure washer or mechanical abrasion. The two toughest areas to cover are those with oil and tree sap. Both of these will work their way down into the concrete. Simply washing the surface isn’t sufficient. If the stains do not run too deep you can chip away the concrete using a hammer and chisel. Don’t forget the goggles (not just glasses) as this process will throw concrete all over the place. Also keep your thumb out of the way. If the spots are too large or too deep for this to be practical you may need a sealer to cover the stains before patching.

There are two basic methods for bonding a portland cement based product to existing concrete; 1) chemically and 2) mechanically.

Let’s discuss the mechanical approach first since it is really used in both approaches. The most effective way to ensure a really good bond is with a scratch coat. This is simply a very wet coat made up by mixing the repair product with water. Mix up a small amount of the repair material to a soupy consistency. You don’t need to measure the water-just turn the stuff into slop. Then, using a gloved hand or a rag, smear the material onto the area to be patched. Just think finger painting from kindergarten. The technique is about the same. Apply pressure to ensure that as much as possible is shoved into the nocks and crannies. You only need a thin coat. It is not necessary for this scratch coat to dry. By the time you get the repair material mixed it will be ready. Then mix up additional repair material to the proper consistency and apply over this thin scratch coat.

The chemical approach involved mixing up a liquid bonding agent that helps bond new concrete products to old. Products like Sakrete Top n Bond and Sakrete Flo-Coat already contain polymers that greatly improve the bond of portland cement and should NEVER be used with a liquid bonding agent. I know in America bigger is better but it just ain’t so with these products. Other products like Sakrete Sand Mix and Sakrete Fast Set Cement Patcher benefit from the use of a liquid chemical bonding agent such as Sakrete Bonder/Fortifier. When you use a liquid bonding agent, paint the bonder onto the existing concrete and allow it to dry until it is tacky. This usually takes only a few minutes. Then apply the repair material. Just as in the process described above, after the bonder has become tacky apply a scratch coat and then apply the repair material. The most effective way to ensure that the bonding agent gets into the existing concrete is to apply it directly using a brush or rag. It can be sprayed if you happen to have a sprayer. Although the directions say that you can use it as part of the mix water, direct application works better.

If you are doing a large area and a scratch coat isn’t practical you will need to spray the surface with water before you apply the repair material. On a warm day the existing concrete surface will be hot enough to suck the water our of the repair material. In addition some concretes are quite porous and will also rob water from your repair material. If too much water is lost into the old concrete there will not be enough water to hydrate all of the cement particles and a lower strength material will be the result.

There are some substances that concrete simply will not bond to. Paint, oil, glue from old flooring tiles are just a few. You must mechanically remove these materials if you want the job to last.

Once the job is complete you can do a quick check to see if the bond was successful. Wait at least 24 hours and then tap “gently” on the patch using a hammer or some other dull object and listen for a hollow echoing sound. If you just get a dull thud then the material has bonded well. If you get a hollow sound, the material has not bonded and will crack in time. Which means it is back to the beginning of today’s topic. Here is hoping your concrete work comes across as a dull thud (not like some of my party guests) rather than a hollow endeavor.

.

369 USER COMMENTS

DR, typically using heat and a putty knife will remove the adhesive. You may need to use a solvent if heat and water does not remove the adhesive.
- Chris Technical Services
Thursday, July 24, 2014 at 11:32 AM

How do you get old vinyl glue up? This is in an small interior bathroom, so fumes would be a problem.
- DR
Tuesday, July 22, 2014 at 6:40 PM

Ray, you need to make sure that these cracks are not expansion joints. To recommend a product depends on the width and depth of the cracks. The cracks must be clean and free of any loose material, dirt, debris, paint, stain, etc. before applying a product to achieve a good bond to the existing concrete. Our Sakrete Top ‘N Bond is used for applications requiring up to a ½” down to a feathered edge. Our Sakrete Sand Mix is used for applications requiring ½” up to 2”. It is also recommended to use our Sakrete Bonder and Fortifier with the Sakrete Sand Mix for a superior bond to existing concrete (not needed for Top ‘N Bond as it’s already polymer modified). If you have any further questions please call us at 1-866-725-7383.
- Chris Technical Services
Monday, June 23, 2014 at 4:40 PM

I have an old concrete patio at the rear of my house. Over time it has begun to sink towards the building. Overall the patio is in pretty decent shape although it is pitted in quite a few areas. My thought is to try and resurface it, with a thinner pour near the house to compensate for the sinking. I'd be looking at going from about 2" depth of new concrete to a feather edge. Any tips on this would be greatly appreciated
- Mike L
Monday, June 23, 2014 at 2:33 PM

I have a crack in a slab that runs across the width of the slab. It was very slight, but last winter was nasty and it has gotten bigger. I want to patch it, but want to use the right product. The concrete is clean and has no stains. It is about 15 years old.
- Ray
Tuesday, June 17, 2014 at 9:52 AM

BJ, if it has been less than 24 hours you can use Sakrete Top N' Bond from 1/2" to a feathered edge. After 24 hours you must wait 28 days for the concrete to cure, then use Top N' Bond.
- Chris Technical Services
Wednesday, June 11, 2014 at 11:01 AM

I put new concrete (roughly 3' x 6') on the walkway yesterday and this morning I found a dip in the middle like a valley. What can I do if I want to make it level? Can I pour more to top to make it level?
- BJ
Wednesday, June 11, 2014 at 10:38 AM

Catherine, there will be what’s called a cold joint. I recommend saw cutting the edge smooth and making that edge an expansion joint.
- Chris Technical Services
Wednesday, June 11, 2014 at 9:33 AM

I was having a concrete base pored for a gazebo. The contractor ran out of cement and is not coming back until tomorrow. Do they need to dig out what was pored and start over or will the new concrete bond with that poured today?
- Catherine
Tuesday, June 10, 2014 at 7:48 PM

Janet, you need to make sure that these cracks are not expansion joints. To recommend a product depends on the width and depth of the cracks. The cracks must be clean and free of any loose material, dirt, debris, paint, stain, etc. before applying a product to achieve a good bond to the existing concrete. Our Sakrete Top ‘N Bond is used for applications requiring up to a ½” down to a feathered edge. Our Sakrete Sand Mix is used for applications requiring ½” up to 2”. It is also recommended to use our Sakrete Bonder and Fortifier with the Sakrete Sand Mix for a superior bond to existing concrete (not needed for Top ‘N Bond as it’s already polymer modified). If you have any further questions please call us at 1-866-725-7383.
- Chris Technical Services
Wednesday, June 4, 2014 at 12:34 PM

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