What is Mortar?

posted by Bob

What is Mortar?

Mortar is a mixture of sand and cements that is most often used to build brick or block walls. In my July blog on cement and concrete I dealt exclusively with portland cement products and uses. I also promised that at a later date I would talk about the masonry world. For those of you on the edge of your seats since then, well today is your lucky day.

While portland cement concrete is certainly one of the most widely used building product in the world, masonry mortar is close behind. It is doubtful that through brute force. Mortar is also designed to be durable but achieves its goal through finesse. Its strengths are quite low compared with concrete and it is never used in thick applications. It is much creamier and more workable than concrete. If you play tennis, think of concrete as your most powerful serve when you are trying to smash the ball into or through your opponent so that they can’t return the serve. Then think of mortar as a very gently placed lob close to the net that gets your opponent leaning the wrong way with no chance of returning the ball. Both achieve the desired result of earning you a point. The point of this long winded analogy is to let you know that using concrete and mortar interchangeably will lead to disaster.

Mortar can be made in one of two ways. The older method is to take portland cement, add hydrated lime and mix with fine sand. The newer method is use masonry cement and fine sand. Masonry cement is simply a material made by most cement companies where they intergrind the portland with lime or other ingredients designed to produce high air content in a kiln. The results are the same. If you go to the store and buy a bag of mortar you will not be able to tell which method was used to make the masonry cement. There are some parts of the country where masonry cement is simply not available and you will only get portland/lime mortar. The good thing is that it doesn’t matter. In my thirty years of doing this type of work I have found that masons are the most determined group I have ever run into. Some will absolutely swear that you must use portland/lime while others insist masonry cement is the way to go. Just chalk it up to personal preference.

There are three things that make mortar very different from concrete. Mortar has lower strengths, must have the ability to retain water and have a high air content. There are three widely produced types of mortar. Types M, S and N. Type M will achieve a compressive strength of 2500 psi at 28 days. Type S will yield 1800 while Type N yields 750. By way of reference most general concrete is in the 4000 psi range but can go as high as 8000 psi for special applications. The easy way to remember the strengths is by spelling out the word MASON WORKS.

Types O and K are not made commercially and can only be used for non structural applications such as fixing old mortar that has fallen out.

Why not make mortar as strong as concrete? In America isn’t bigger better? Not with mortar. When you build a wall you want the block or brick to be the strongest part of the wall. When the wall shifts, and almost all do over time, the weakest part is going to break. If the brick or block were to break, then the fix would be building a new wall. If the mortar crumbles, provided you don’t let it go on for years, you simply need to repoint the wall (that means sticking mortar back in where the old mortar fell out). This is a simpler and more inexpensive fix. One important reason why masonry cement or a portland/lime blend works well in a mortar joint and straight portland does not is the high air content. Many walls are exposed to rain and water. In the winter many of these are in area where temperatures often dip below freezing. The mortar contains a certain amount of water. When water freezes it takes up more space than water. This means that it will expand and crack whatever is next to it. By intentionally putting lots of tiny air bubbles in the mortar, the expanded ice has somewhere to go without causing damage. Concrete generally has enough mass that this isn’t a problem.

I previously mentioned that mortar must also be able to retain water for a certain period of time. Most masons mix up enough mortar to be able to lay a good amount of brick or block without having to stop and mix more. If the mortar they mixed doesn’t retain its flowable nature for at least an hour the mason will simply add more water to bring it back to life. While this is a really bad idea, it is done in the field all of the time. The problem with this is that the strength of the mortar is designed around certain water to cement ratio. If the ratio is skewed, then so are you when the walls fail due to weak mortar.

So which mortar should I use? Commercial jobs will usually state which you are required to use. For none specification work, Type S is usually a safe bet and is what most of you would use on your projects. For those who have a quest to know more, the best general rule is that if the wall is non load bearing, such as a divider wall inside of a building, then Type N is sufficient. If the wall is below grade or carrying the load of the roof or several stories of brick or block use Type S. Type M is rarely called for and only used in certain large commercial projects.

Bob Schmidt

Product Manager

Sakrete of North America



Hugh, we would not have a recommendation as how to repair the surface of the mortar. ANSI specifications require a Portland cement based product to be used in the installation of a mud bed for a shower floor not a masonry cement. The material that we would have recommended would have been the Sakrete Sand Mix.
- Lee-Technical Service
Friday, August 19, 2016 at 1:57 PM

I painted Red Guard on top of the Type S mortar I used for the final mortar in the shower pan, but had to remove it entirely as it did not set smoothly. I'm left with a very rough surface that is not smooth enough for thinset. What should I use to smooth out the rough spots prior to setting the mosaic tile with thinset? Obviously the shower pan slope needs to be retained.
- Hugh
Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 2:20 PM

Julie, typically with these types of applications you would use the Sakrete Sand Mix material. But you have to keep in mind that the bedding is flexible and this application will have general maintenance that will need to be done over time. With a flexible system the Sand Mix will crack and need to be repaired periodically. Usually these types of flagstone are placed over a concrete base to eliminate the flexibility and help cut down on cracking.
- Lee-Technical Service
Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 4:38 PM

I have a 30 ft walkwau with large irregular shaped flagstones that are up t 2.5"deep. These stones have been in place for 7-8 years on a bed of sand mixed with small stones called "Breeze". Due to irregular shapes, some spaces are 4-5 inches between stones. What product should I use?
- Julie
Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 12:45 PM

I'm insetting clay pavers (modular brick size) into the front edge of a concrete step. What mortar should I use to hold up to the foot traffic, and should I prep the concrete step in any way to make sure the mortar bonds properly? Thanks!
- Chris
Tuesday, June 28, 2016 at 10:18 AM

Mike K, you can use the Sakrete Surface Bonding Cement to smooth a cinder block wall. Make sure that the wall is damp, free of paints and sealers prior to application.
- Lee-Technical Service
Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 9:50 AM

What is used to do the outside of a cinder block wall to make it smooth?
- mike k
Saturday, June 11, 2016 at 8:11 PM

Rangareddy.Y, typically the material that is used in those types of applications are either shotcrete or gunite materials.
- Lee-Technical Service
Wednesday, June 1, 2016 at 9:24 AM

What type of mortar was used in water storage form ponds lining. What type of leak proof materials,
Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 3:51 AM

Jeff, when laying stone on a concrete walking surface you should be using Sakrete Sand Mix Topping and Bedding Mix not a Mortar Mix. Modify the Sand Mix with the Sakrete Bonder & Fortifier. Make sure that the concrete surface is clean and free of any loose dust, debris, old materials, paints, and sealers. The concrete surface needs to be rough not smooth. Dampen the surface and mix the Sand Mix using the Bonder & Fortifier as directed, apply a bedding of the material to the surface 1” in thickness and press the stones in place. The material will probably works its way up in the joints, this is ok. Just make sure it is not higher than the desired grout joint. Wait for about 14-16 hours and then mix more of the Sand Mix to fill in the joints and strike them off with a tool handle or gloved finger. Do not let anyone walk on the area for at least a day after filling the joints.
- Lee-Technical Service
Wednesday, May 4, 2016 at 3:08 PM



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