What is Mortar?

posted by Bob

What is Mortar?

Mortar is a mixture of sand and cements that is most often used to build brick or block walls. In my July blog on cement and concrete I dealt exclusively with portland cement products and uses. I also promised that at a later date I would talk about the masonry world. For those of you on the edge of your seats since then, well today is your lucky day.

While portland cement concrete is certainly one of the most widely used building product in the world, masonry mortar is close behind. It is doubtful that you live or work in a building that doesn’t have mortar in it somewhere. The 3/8” gray line of material that separates the brick or block is mortar. Mortar is a very different animal than concrete. Concrete is designed to be used in thicker applications and to reach very high strengths. It achieves its durability through brute force. Mortar is also designed to be durable but achieves its goal through finesse. Its strengths are quite low compared with concrete and it is never used in thick applications. It is much creamier and more workable than concrete. If you play tennis, think of concrete as your most powerful serve when you are trying to smash the ball into or through your opponent so that they can’t return the serve. Then think of mortar as a very gently placed lob close to the net that gets your opponent leaning the wrong way with no chance of returning the ball. Both achieve the desired result of earning you a point. The point of this long winded analogy is to let you know that using concrete and mortar interchangeably will lead to disaster.

Mortar can be made in one of two ways. The older method is to take portland cement, add hydrated lime and mix with fine sand. The newer method is use masonry cement and fine sand. Masonry cement is simply a material made by most cement companies where they intergrind the portland with lime or other ingredients designed to produce high air content in a kiln. The results are the same. If you go to the store and buy a bag of mortar you will not be able to tell which method was used to make the masonry cement. There are some parts of the country where masonry cement is simply not available and you will only get portland/lime mortar. The good thing is that it doesn’t matter. In my thirty years of doing this type of work I have found that masons are the most determined group I have ever run into. Some will absolutely swear that you must use portland/lime while others insist masonry cement is the way to go. Just chalk it up to personal preference.

There are three things that make mortar very different from concrete. Mortar has lower strengths, must have the ability to retain water and have a high air content. There are three widely produced types of mortar. Types M, S and N. Type M will achieve a compressive strength of 2500 psi at 28 days. Type S will yield 1800 while Type N yields 750. By way of reference most general concrete is in the 4000 psi range but can go as high as 8000 psi for special applications. The easy way to remember the strengths is by spelling out the word MASON WORKS.

                                        M       A -----          O ----            W ----    O       R ----    K       S ----
                                                    2500                 1800                750                     350                   75

Types O and K are not made commercially and can only be used for non structural applications such as fixing old mortar that has fallen out.

Why not make mortar as strong as concrete? In America isn’t bigger better? Not with mortar. When you build a wall you want the block or brick to be the strongest part of the wall. When the wall shifts, and almost all do over time, the weakest part is going to break. If the brick or block were to break, then the fix would be building a new wall. If the mortar crumbles, provided you don’t let it go on for years, you simply need to repoint the wall (that means sticking mortar back in where the old mortar fell out). This is a simpler and more inexpensive fix. One important reason why masonry cement or a portland/lime blend works well in a mortar joint and straight portland does not is the high air content. Many walls are exposed to rain and water. In the winter many of these are in area where temperatures often dip below freezing. The mortar contains a certain amount of water. When water freezes it takes up more space than water. This means that it will expand and crack whatever is next to it. By intentionally putting lots of tiny air bubbles in the mortar, the expanded ice has somewhere to go without causing damage. Concrete generally has enough mass that this isn’t a problem.

I previously mentioned that mortar must also be able to retain water for a certain period of time. Most masons mix up enough mortar to be able to lay a good amount of brick or block without having to stop and mix more. If the mortar they mixed doesn’t retain its flowable nature for at least an hour the mason will simply add more water to bring it back to life. While this is a really bad idea, it is done in the field all of the time. The problem with this is that the strength of the mortar is designed around certain water to cement ratio. If the ratio is skewed, then so are you when the walls fail due to weak mortar.

So which mortar should I use? Commercial jobs will usually state which you are required to use. For none specification work, Type S is usually a safe bet and is what most of you would use on your projects. For those who have a quest to know more, the best general rule is that if the wall is non load bearing, such as a divider wall inside of a building, then Type N is sufficient. If the wall is below grade or carrying the load of the roof or several stories of brick or block use Type S. Type M is rarely called for and only used in certain large commercial projects.

Bob Schmidt
Product Manager
Sakrete of North America



Randy, yes covering with plastic allows the material to cure more evenly by trapping in the moisture and heat during the initial set up period. After 24 hours the plastic can be removed.
- Chris Technical Services
Friday, October 23, 2015 at 9:01 AM

Chris, with repointing joints using sand mix,does the same curing process (keeping damp and covered) have to be followed as in the instructions if its used to create a bed? Just don't want to have to re-do too many times, thnx
- Randy
Monday, October 19, 2015 at 6:08 PM

Randy, we suggest Sakrete Sand Mix for repointing the bluestone. First be sure the joints are properly prepared by removing any bond breakers such as paint, stain, loose material, dirt, dust, oil, etc. The manufacture of the sealer being used will have the best suggestion as to when the sealer should be applied.
- Chris Technical Services
Monday, October 19, 2015 at 3:23 PM

Tony, there are a few questions left unanswered. #1. what do you mean by "slabs"? #2. What is the substrate that is currently present? #3. How much depth is required once the 2" "slabs" are installed?
- Chris Technical Services
Monday, October 19, 2015 at 3:19 PM

do you recommend Stone Veneer Mortar for repointing bluestone joints around a pool deck? if not what's suggested product to repair some major cracks. Also, how long should i wait before applying a sealer?
- Randy
Monday, October 19, 2015 at 12:31 PM

I am going to lay 50 mm slabs on the porch. What kind of material to put beneath the slabs to make them solid?
- Tony
Friday, October 16, 2015 at 1:08 AM

Paul, NO we do not recommend mixing the 2 together. This will cause the slab to be very weak and have many cracks due to shrinkage.
- Chris Technical Services
Monday, October 12, 2015 at 12:52 PM

Can I mix some bags of concrete with mortar? if yes to what ratio? I have a small project to finish and I have some extra bags of Mortar and I would use them to make a 6" concrete base, 5 feet by 5 feet. Thank you
- Paul Lapointe
Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 6:29 AM

Jim, thinset is designed specifically for setting tiles and should not be applied more than 3/16” thick. Depending on the size of the tiles, the application, and whether it is being used interior or exterior determines what thinset should be used. Sakrete Roof Tile Mortar Mix is a mixture of high strength masonry cement and sand and can be used up to ½” thick. The material used to set the tiles is really subjective. I hope this helps.
- Chris Technical Services
Monday, October 5, 2015 at 11:43 AM

My tile-setting friend (in subtropical south Florida) swears by using "Sakrete's Roof Tile Mortar mix" instead of "thinset" or other mortars marketed as being specifically for bathroom tiles, when installing a tiled shower floor over a "shower pan." He's a very experienced and does beautiful work. When I asked him to explain his preference, he acknowledged a cost-savings (tiny when compared to the cost of most projects), but it really seemed to be about is experience and trust of this product. I won't push it lest he feel I'm questioning his judgment. But, I wonder if it isn't about the organic additives in some mortar types that, in damp sites, I have heard can encourage mold (mildew). I'm really curious and would like to understand... just what is the difference between roof tile mortar and thinset?
- Jim
Saturday, October 3, 2015 at 9:57 AM



Enter Text From the Image Above: