Bonding to Existing Concrete


Fact: Fresh wet concrete does not normally bond well to existing dry concrete. Do you remember elementary school where one of the subjects on which you were graded was “plays well with others”? Concrete would have gotten an F. There is nothing in basic portland cement that will act as a bonding agent. Portland cement concrete works well in mass and provides great compressive strength but not bond.

Concrete is marvelous stuff but in time it will deteriorate. When it does, you either have to patch it or replace it. Assuming that it is structurally sound the least expensive alternative is to patch it. However patching it requires some attention to detail or your patch will not last. So that you don’t waste too much time or money, we should probably discuss what “structurally sound” means. If your sidewalk has either heaved or dropped at almost every joint, repairing it will not provide a long-term solution. The slabs are likely still moving. If your slab has so much sand and gravel on the surface that despite sweeping and sweeping and squirting and squirting it just keeps coming back, don’t waste your time on repairs. If you have multiple cracks that run so deep that they appear to run through the slab, a repair would only be temporary. The solution to all of these problems involves a jackhammer and bags of one of the Sakrete concretes. Since this discussion is on the best way to bond concrete, we will assume that your slab is good.

There are a variety of Sakrete concrete repair products available to fix concrete that has begun to deteriorate. However, without good surface preparation, none of them are going to perform satisfactorily. All loose sand, gravel, dirt, leaves etc. must be removed. This can typically be done with a garden hose and a good nozzle. Tough areas may require a pressure washer or mechanical abrasion. The two toughest areas to cover are those with oil and tree sap. Both of these will work their way down into the concrete. Simply washing the surface isn’t sufficient. If the stains do not run too deep, you can chip away the concrete using a hammer and chisel. Don’t forget the goggles (not just glasses) as this process will throw concrete all over the place. Also, keep your thumb out of the way. If the spots are too large or too deep for this to be practical, you may need a sealer to cover the stains before patching.

There are two basic methods for bonding a portland cement based product to existing concrete; 1) chemically and 2) mechanically.

Let’s discuss the mechanical approach first since it is really used in both approaches. The most effective way to ensure a really good bond is with a scratch coat. This is simply a very wet coat made up by mixing the repair product with water. Mix up a small amount of the repair material to a soupy consistency. You don’t need to measure the water-just turn the stuff into slop. Then, using a gloved hand or a rag, smear the material onto the area to be patched. Just think finger painting from kindergarten. The technique is about the same. Apply pressure to ensure that as much as possible is shoved into the nocks and crannies. You only need a thin coat. It is not necessary for this scratch coat to dry. By the time you get the repair material mixed it will be ready. Then mix up additional repair material to the proper consistency and apply over this thin scratch coat.

The chemical approach involved mixing up a liquid bonding agent that helps bond new concrete products to old. Products like Sakrete Top 'N Bond and Sakrete Flo-Coat already contain polymers that greatly improve the bond of portland cement and should NEVER be used with a liquid bonding agent. I know in America bigger is better but it’s just not so with these products. Other products like Sakrete Sand Mix and Sakrete Fast Set Cement Patcher benefit from the use of a liquid chemical bonding agent such as Sakrete Bonder & Fortifier. When using a liquid bonding agent, paint the bonder onto the existing concrete and allow it to dry until it is tacky. This usually takes only a few minutes. Then apply the repair material. Just as in the process described above, after the bonder has become tacky apply a scratch coat and then apply the repair material. The most effective way to ensure that the bonding agent gets into the existing concrete is to apply it directly using a brush or rag. It can be sprayed if you happen to have a sprayer. Although the directions say that you can use it as part of the mix water, direct application works better.

If you are doing a large area and a scratch coat isn’t practical you will need to spray the surface with water before you apply the repair material. On a warm day, the existing concrete surface will be hot enough to suck the water out of the repair material. In addition, some concretes are quite porous and will rob water from your repair material. If too much water is lost into the old concrete there will not be enough water to hydrate all of the cement particles and a lower strength material will be the result. Concrete simply will not bond to all substances. Paint, oil, glue from old flooring tiles are just a few. You must mechanically remove these materials if you want the job to last.

Once the job is complete, you can do a quick check to see if the bond was successful. Wait at least 24 hours and then tap “gently” on the patch using a hammer or some other dull object and listen for a hollow echoing sound. If you just get a dull thud then the material has bonded well. If you get a hollow sound, the material has not bonded and will crack in time. Which means it is back to the beginning of today’s topic. Here is hoping your concrete work comes across as a dull thud (not like some of my party guests) rather than a hollow endeavor.

For more information on where to buy these products, visit here.


  • Fernando Branco

    Hi Lee I have an issue with our steps which were poured concrete. The contractor forgot to take into account the over hang (lip) off our porch thus making the top step 2 inches short while the bottom one is ok. What solution do you have other than ripping them out and redoing them? My contractor is going to get to me but thought I would reach out to you. Is it possible to form the steps and extend the concrete to the 2' we need or will it cause problems in the future? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • Lee-Technical Service

    Hugh, if you have Cure N Seal on the new pours then you will not have to cover or keep the concrete damp. The Cure N Seal will take care of that.
  • Hugh

    Thanks for the info Lee. One other question- The curing agent was Sakrete Cure and Seal. It was applied to a couple of other small pours as well. On these surfaces, do we need to keep them moist, covered with white plastic, etc, to provide the best cure? Or should we just leave them exposed and no water?
  • Lee-Technical Service

    Hugh, unfortunately the curing compound is going to act a s a bond breaker and the new material will not stick to it. You would have to wait 28 days from the time of installation to allow the slab to cure and then abrade the surface until all of the curing compound is removed. Then you can go over the surface with one of our concrete resurfacers.
  • Hugh

    I have a newly poured slab which set up before finishing was done and the surface is rough and uneven. A curing agent was applied as well. Will the Top 'N Bond adhere to this surface?
  • Lee-Technical Service

    Anthony, you would need to prep the area prior to using any of the repair product. Then you have to be sure that what you have left is stable. If it is stable the you could try to use the Top-N-Bond Concrete Patcher. This material is polymer modified, so do not add any bonding agents, It can be placed from 1/2" down to a featheredge and you can do multiple layers if you wait at least 45 minute to an hour between layers.
  • Anthony

    I've got a set of concrete stairs (~20) going up to a side entrance on the 2nd floor of the house. Half of one of the steps has broken off. I plan to build a form for the step to fill where the chunk came out. (~8" - 10" across the step and most of the heigh of the riser. I'm looking for a recommendation if there's a particular type of concrete best suited to this application and what to use to ensure as good a bonding between the surfaces as possible. Thanks
  • Lee-Technical Service

    Kevin, it will still be a cold joint no matter what. But it may hold up for just a fence post.
  • Lee-Technical Service

    Ann, I would not use the Flo-Coat for that application. Typically people use Portland cement slurry or unsanded grout. It depends on the severity of the holes.
  • Kevin

    Can I add new rapid post mix to existing cured rapid post mix without using a bonding agent?
Load More View All

Leave a Comment:

Back to Blog